Dog Flu Safety Protocols

Over the last week, we have scoured available information, had discussions with vets, and brainstormed on defining and improving the sanitation protocols at Fluffy Ruff to maximize safety for our treasured pet clients. We will be on the lookout for ideas to improve or tweak these as we go along.

SCHEDULING:

         Clients are asked on the reminder call, as well at check-in, a list of questions regarding their pet’s health.

Questions:         

-Has your dog been boarded or at a doggy daycare in the last two weeks?

-Have you observed any wellness issues, such as coughing, sneezing, runny nose, goopy eyes, gagging, or diarrhea?

If they answer “yes” to any of these, the day’s appointment will be cancelled, and rescheduled if appropriate.

Toothbrushing service is not available at this time.

FRONT RECEPTION AREA:

         Entry door is wiped with sanitizer inside and out repeatedly throughout the day.

         Air purifier is running at all times, with additional fans running throughout the spa. Purifier filter and fans are cleared of hair buildup and sprayed with wintergreen alcohol daily.

         Phones and keyboard, desk and mouse are sprayed and wiped with sanitizer throughout the day.

         Hands must be washed before grabbing treats from the containers. One “grab” per client to prevent cross-contamination.

         Employee-owned pets are staying at home right now unless they have an appointment and are kenneled while here.

         No more than one client pet/family is allowed in the reception area at a time to check in or out. STOP sign is posted on the door to alert new arrivals to wait until the person inside leaves.

         Client leashes and collars are not to be kept on the premises.

         Floor is vacuumed and steam-mopped daily.

KENNELING:

         Each kennel is cleaned between each dog with “256” disinfectant and a towel, wiping down sides and back and floor and ceiling, as well as the door inside and out.

The disinfectant sits 10 minutes between dogs. A clean blanket or towel is placed in the bottom of the kennel after being cleaned.

         Kennel doors are draped with microfiber towel that is tagged and folded to stay with that dog throughout its stay, to reduce exchanges of breath vapor droplets. 

BATHING AND GROOMING AREAS:

         The faucets, tubs and tables are sprayed with sanitizer and wiped down after each dog.

         Tools, loops, nozzles, and sprayers are sprayed with wintergreen alcohol after use on each dog.  Muzzles, if used, are laundered and air-dried.

         When dogs are transferred between areas, they are carried or leashed to prevent contact with other animals.

A towel is placed under each dog while being blow-dried.       

Floors are vacuumed and steam-mopped daily.

         Between client dogs, employees will wash hands with soapy  water, and wipe arms and neck with disinfectant wipes.  Clothing will be brushed or tape-rollered off and sprayed with disinfectant.

Current News and Grooming Tips 05/07/2020

In Washington State, Pet Grooming has been deemed a Phase 2 business. That means it will be AT LEAST May 26 and possibly later before we can legally reopen.
In the process of checking voicemails and cancelling appointments, I have come across some Burning Questions from Pet Owners, that I would like to share possible solutions for.

1) TOENAILS????

Yes, you can dremel them. Definitely have a helper to hold the dog steady so you can focus on each toe, one at a time. Get the toenail sides and top. The front of the nail usually just happens to get done if you focus on these. YES you can trim just the tippy tip, weekly, and it will help. YES you can file it with a nail file or emery board. It will just take longer and you will almost definitely not quick the dog this way. Unless you are extremely proficient with a nail file. I'd be shocked. I like to suggest CAT CLAW TRIMMERS because it is extremely unlikely you'll take off too much. CLOT-IT is a great product to have on hand in case you do draw blood. Press some powder onto the bleeding area and it will stop pretty quickly.

2) MATS????

Mats are my personal enemy. They are now multiplying exponentially at home, and pet owners are able to notice them. In sensitive areas, like the groin, butt, armpit, and eye area, definitely have a helper to hold the dog steady. Most dogs are nervous about having you study these areas and they will squirm. For these areas I would avoid using scissors. If you must address them, use a 9 or 10 blade carefully and gently. DO NOT CLIP ALONG A WRINKLE as it could slip between the teeth of the blade and cause a serious cut. In not-sensitive, easily-accessible areas, try CORNSTARCH. You can work it into the mat and then the mat will brush apart.

3) THE MATS KEEP COMING BACK????

The reason for this is that when the hair reaches a certain length, it passes a tipping point. Your tools and skills are inadequate to maintain the coat combed out, in addition to the longer hair becoming worn and damaged and tangle-prone. Once the hair has been in a mat, it will re-tangle three times as fast. Like a sweater that pills up. You remove the pills but they keep coming back. I don't recommend you try clipping the whole coat. I recommend you focus on removing the mats. You will need a helper to hold the dog steady. Slide a comb along the skin under the mat, sideways. Then cut through the mat on the outside of the comb. With short safe scissors. Repeat on all the mats you can find that are not in sensitive areas. You should then be able to brush through the newer coat growth and the remnants of the mats. Use cornstarch if you need to.

4) SHE SEEMS HOT. WHAT SHOULD I DO????

Keep your dog brushed and combed out. The hair will act as an insulator against the heat as well as it insulates against cold. I'm hot too. The weather is warming up. I do not recommend giving your dog a haircut all over.

5) WHAT CLIPPERS SHOULD I GET????

I don't know. I believe most places are sold out. Good grooming tools are expensive. For home use, I think your best bet is a Wahl Arco trimmer with a 5-in-1 blade and a set of attachment combs. If you do use a clipper, pay attention to the blade heating up. It will get warm. You need to stop before it gets HOT. Test the blade temperature on the underside of your forearm. Brush out the hair buildup, and oil the teeth on the underside of the blade, and let it cool off before you start again. You won't be able to do it in one sitting with only one blade.

6) HIS BUTT STINKS????

It may be anal gland buildup. It might just be normal dog body odor. Sporting dogs tend to be the stinkiest because of having been bred to work in wet environments. Their coat produces protective oils that stink when they are exposed to the air. If you think it is anal glands, check with your vet. You can search for tutorials online on expressing anal glands, but it is gross and can be tricky. To deodorize afterward, or to help with body odor, you can spritz your dog with vinegar or a vinegar-water solution. The temporary pickle smell will dissipate as it dries, neutralizing the odor. You can also do this to STINKY TOES, dipping toes in a vinegar or vinegar-and-water solution after walks. Then towel dry. STINKY TOES are usually a yeast or fungus situation that should be investigated by your vet when you can have them take a look.

Regular Brushing Routine/Technique

Most dogs will benefit from being brushed out nose-to-tail, weekly.  There are many different coat types so your technique would vary depending on what your dog needs.  Shedding dogs can benefit from monthly bathing—you use a rubber curry with the shampoo and conditioner in the tub to turn loose the loose hair.  Then after air-drying, use a fine-toothed comb forward and reverse through the coat to release more hair.  Why do they shed so much?  Dogs have 7-25 hairs per follicle…compare that to what we humans have—one hair per follicle!   As each hair reaches the length it is supposed to be, the follicle releases it and starts a new hair.  That is why your shedding dog has so much hair to share!

Those of you who carefully chose a dog to avoid all that shedding hair?  Congratulations!  Your dog’s hair will need to be trimmed!  And it will tangle and mat if you don’t brush it out weekly.  Generally, this is not a problem if you have a schedule with your groomer during which the hair remains at manageable lengths.  Your dog will enjoy the weekly or nightly brushing times on your lap while you catch up on your favorite TV shows and movies.  Especially if you give him a delicious treat after that “work.”  I must award a treat to both my dogs, because each is so pained to see me lavishing so much concentrated attention on the other.  The only way to make it bearable is to award a treat to both the brushed and un-brushed dog.  LOL. 

So…brushing your fluffy non-shedding dog.  You need a slicker brush, a comb, and a misting spray that might be water or might be something to make the hair more slippery to untangle.  A slicker brush is the one with all the little wires all bent at an angle.  Because of the way these brushes are made, they tend to be scratchy if you pull it through the coat like a regular human hair brush.  You can feel this if you test on your forearm and wrist.  What you want to do, is Tap and Tug, or Pat and Pull.  Make contact and then lift out of the coat.  If there are tangles, there may be a faint static sound. You might mist the area, and repeat the Pat and Pull.  Repeating gently but with enough pressure to reach the skin, should separate the hairs so that a comb can pass through like butter.  If the comb is NOT passing through like butter, go back to that area with the slicker brush.  This time, imagine you are sketching an asterisk on the sticky spot, with the slicker.  Tap and tug, lightly, until the brush slides easily through to the skin.   When you make skin contact, check with the comb and then move on to an adjacent area.  It sounds like a lot, but really goes quickly when the coat is mostly in good shape and you are enjoying the bonding, massage-like experience with your encouraging canine friend.

Nail Trims

Trimming your Dog’s Nails regularly is important.  If the nails become too long, they can create pressure and strain on your dog’s skeletal structure and joints…starting from the foot structure, going up to the elbows, knees, and hips and shoulders.  To prevent this, you should try to make sure that when your dog is standing, the foot rests on the floor without the nails pressing on the ground.  When we trim the nails, we try to trim off the excess nail past the grown curve, then dremel over the sides, top and bottom around the quick.  If your dog is very sensitive to the dremel’s vibration, we may opt to trim only without dremeling.  Please let us know if your dog needs to be muzzled for nail trims.